Stitch'n Fold B2000: Difference between revisions

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[[File:Anemone booklet maker stitch n fold b2000 with biome 1 nurture melt zine being assembled.jpg|thumb]]
{{Machine
The Stitch 'n Fold B2000 is a type of [[Booklet Maker]]. It has a side jog plus full length tape feed, and uses wire to make the staples.
|brand=ISP
|machine_type=Booklet maker
|process=Binding
|product_number=B2000
|status=Active
}}
The Stitch'n Fold B2000 is a type of booklet maker. It has a side jog plus full length tape feed, and uses wire to make the staples.


== Specifications ==
<gallery class="center" widths="450" heights="450" style="margin-top: 1em;">
Paper Size: Min. 4.75" x 8.5" Max. 12.5" x 18" (also: A5 to A3)
Anemone booklet maker stitch n fold b2000 with biome 1 nurture melt zine being assembled.jpg
</gallery>


Booklets: 4.25" x 5.5", 5.5" x 8.5", 8.5" x 11", 4.75" x 4.75 "CD", & metric sizes


(All booklets with or without trim stock on one or three sides)
== Specifications ==
 
{| class="wikitable"
Stitch Space: 5.5" on 8.5" or 11" tall books 2.75" on 5.5" tall books
! style="text-align: right;" | Paper size
 
| Min. 4.75" × 8.5" Max. 12.5" × 18" (also: A5 to A3)
Unit Weight: 235 Pounds
|-
 
! style="text-align: right;" | Booklet size
Speed: Up to 2,300 booklets per hour (any size)
| <p>4.25" × 5.5", 5.5" × 8.5", 8.5" × 11", 4.75" × 4.75 "CD", and metric sizes</p><p>''All booklets with or without trim stock on one or three sides.''</p>
 
|-
Capacity: 2 to 25 sheets of 20# bond (100 page book)
! style="text-align: right;" | Stitching area
 
| <p>5.5" on 8.5" or 11" tall books</p><p>2.75" on 5.5" tall books</p>
Re-load: 65,000 booklets per spool of wire
|-
 
! style="text-align: right;" | Speed
Footprint: 16.25" x 22.5"
| Up to 2,300 booklets per hour (any size)
 
|-
Dimensions: Height 25" Width 21" Depth 52"
! style="text-align: right;" | Capacity
| 2 to 25 sheets of 20# bond (8 to 100 page book)
|-
! style="text-align: right;" | Re-load
| 65,000 booklets per spool of wire
|-
! style="text-align: right;" | Weight
| 235 lbs
|-
! style="text-align: right;" | Dimensions
| 25" H × 21" W × 52" D
|-
! style="text-align: right;" | Footprint
| 16.25" × 22.5"
|}


== Equipment Maintenance ==
== Maintenance ==


=== Cleaning the Rollers ===
=== Cleaning the rollers ===
Using a sacrificial outer sheet or waiting for the ink on the covers to dry can help avoid ink buildup on the rollers. You can wipe down the rollers with cleaner. (At[[ANEMONE]] we use a mix of rubbing alcohol and water with shop towels, but I'm not sure that's the best cleaning method.) To access the lower rollers, you can also remove the entire delivery table and clean from the outside of the machine.  
Using a sacrificial outer sheet or waiting for the ink on the covers to dry can help avoid ink buildup on the rollers. To access the lower rollers, remove the entire delivery table and clean from the outside of the machine.  


=== Replacing the Rollers ===
=== Replacing the rollers ===
From Ben at BearBear: We found a rubber roller manufacturer within a reasonable distance. They had someone visit the studio to look at the rollers, and invoiced us 400 total (99 per roller). We did the removal of the rollers prior to their visit for easy handoff. Once they gave the refreshed rollers back we installed ourselves.
Replacement rollers can be manufactured for ~$100 per roller, from shops which service letterpress or typerwiter rollers/platens.<ref>"We found a rubber roller manufacturer within a reasonable distance. They had someone visit the studio to look at the rollers, and invoiced us 400 total (99 per roller). We did the removal of the rollers prior to their visit for easy handoff. Once they gave the refreshed rollers back we installed ourselves." — [[BearBear]]</ref>


* The inside of the machine you’ll see the rollers are connected to plastic blocks with springs that are giving tension between them and the machine. Turn off machine, unplug, remove the two large metal covers. Pretty easy, they are held in by about 4 screws from what I recall.
The rollers are connected to plastic blocks with springs holding them in tension.
* Your first task is taking photos beforehand as a reminder as to where everything sits. It also might help to write 1,2,3,4 each block and where the rollers are on the machine itself. I think there are a two different spring types to note as well, as they are purposefully placed in their locations for strength. You’ll then work on figuring out loosening the chains from the areas where those plastic blocks are. I didn’t fully remove chains. I might even have my recollection wrong of when to remove the chain from the side for photo 1. You might have to remove one of the gears first to loosen it.
* You’ll use alan keys to loosen the gears, this may be difficult and might require PB penetrating oil to help loosen. Once those are loose, you’ll be able to start wiggling those gears out and carefully remove the blocks and springs. Be careful as there is tension with those springs and they’ll do their best to fly away. This might require some problem solving on removal/re-entry. I honestly think I was using a large flathead screwdriver but it probably wasn’t the best tool for the job haha.
* Once you have everything out you’ll be able to shimmy the rollers out. It does take a little bit of time just to get familiar with everything. I’m just kind of giving a general ideal of what to expect, take your time and just get to know the machine and pieces. You’ll gain confidence as you go along!<br />


=== Groups with this Equipment: ===
# Turn off and unplug the machine
Currently using the Stitch 'n Fold B2000:
# Remove the two large metal front/back covers (4 screws each—2 inside the top edge, 2 below).
# Document the arrangement of rollers and gears.
#* Take photos beforehand as a reminder as to where everything sits.
#* Use a permanent marker to number the plastic blocks that the rollers are mounted to so they can be matched back up.
#* Note the different spring types and sizes.
# Loosen tension on the timing chains from the areas where those plastic blocks are—the chains do not need to be fully removed.
# Use allen keys to loosen the set screws in gears on the ends of the roller shafts. This may be difficult and might require penetrating oil to help loosen them, or a gear/bearing puller.
# Once those are loose, start wiggling those gears out and carefully remove the blocks and springs. Be careful as there is tension with those springs and they’ll do their best to fly away. This might require some problem solving on removal/re-entry.
# Once the gears and blocks are removed, slide the rollers out.


* [[ANEMONE]]
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly—be especially cautious when replacing the springs.
* [[BearBear]]
* rathaus press


(Add yourself!)
{{Machine/usage}}
{{References}}

Latest revision as of 17:40, 18 December 2025

Stitch'n Fold B2000
Booklet maker
StatusActive

The Stitch'n Fold B2000 is a type of booklet maker. It has a side jog plus full length tape feed, and uses wire to make the staples.


Specifications

Paper size Min. 4.75" × 8.5" Max. 12.5" × 18" (also: A5 to A3)
Booklet size

4.25" × 5.5", 5.5" × 8.5", 8.5" × 11", 4.75" × 4.75 "CD", and metric sizes

All booklets with or without trim stock on one or three sides.

Stitching area

5.5" on 8.5" or 11" tall books

2.75" on 5.5" tall books

Speed Up to 2,300 booklets per hour (any size)
Capacity 2 to 25 sheets of 20# bond (8 to 100 page book)
Re-load 65,000 booklets per spool of wire
Weight 235 lbs
Dimensions 25" H × 21" W × 52" D
Footprint 16.25" × 22.5"

Maintenance

Cleaning the rollers

Using a sacrificial outer sheet or waiting for the ink on the covers to dry can help avoid ink buildup on the rollers. To access the lower rollers, remove the entire delivery table and clean from the outside of the machine.

Replacing the rollers

Replacement rollers can be manufactured for ~$100 per roller, from shops which service letterpress or typerwiter rollers/platens.[1]

The rollers are connected to plastic blocks with springs holding them in tension.

  1. Turn off and unplug the machine
  2. Remove the two large metal front/back covers (4 screws each—2 inside the top edge, 2 below).
  3. Document the arrangement of rollers and gears.
    • Take photos beforehand as a reminder as to where everything sits.
    • Use a permanent marker to number the plastic blocks that the rollers are mounted to so they can be matched back up.
    • Note the different spring types and sizes.
  4. Loosen tension on the timing chains from the areas where those plastic blocks are—the chains do not need to be fully removed.
  5. Use allen keys to loosen the set screws in gears on the ends of the roller shafts. This may be difficult and might require penetrating oil to help loosen them, or a gear/bearing puller.
  6. Once those are loose, start wiggling those gears out and carefully remove the blocks and springs. Be careful as there is tension with those springs and they’ll do their best to fly away. This might require some problem solving on removal/re-entry.
  7. Once the gears and blocks are removed, slide the rollers out.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly—be especially cautious when replacing the springs.

Usage

There are 0 places using Stitch'n Fold B2000 machines (0% of all active places).


A map of the 0 places using Stitch'n Fold B2000 machines—as listed in the Atlas.

References

  1. "We found a rubber roller manufacturer within a reasonable distance. They had someone visit the studio to look at the rollers, and invoiced us 400 total (99 per roller). We did the removal of the rollers prior to their visit for easy handoff. Once they gave the refreshed rollers back we installed ourselves." — BearBear